The isolation , Enjoy a hard and comfortable life .
The charm of traveling to Tibet , Or in this .
Last night , It's raining all the time , I've been out for a month , I've never met such a continuous rainy day .
Early in the morning , It's still raining . So many days in Lhasa , I haven't seen Chaoyang before . Lhasa is known as “ Sunshine City ” Of .
Yesterday evening , My husband and I came back from Xigaze to talk with Huage 、 Brother Li meets , I saw this weather this morning , The last planned tourist destination near Lhasa —— YangHu —— I have to give up .
The day I went to Nepal , I also planned to go to Yanghu first , Give up because of the rain . This time it's the same reason .
Let's go . Go further , After all, we have to set foot on the way home .
The hostess tied up the white hada for us , Wish us a safe journey .
Left Lhasa in the rain , Looking at the floating and fuzzy Potala Palace in the distance , Still a little sad . For more than a month on the journey to the West , This is the second time that I am reluctant to leave a city , The first is the place where the journey to the West officially started —— Chengdu . Human cloud ： Men don't go to Sichuan 、 Women don't go into Tibet , Chengdu and Tibet are two provincial capitals , There's too much to give up .
Some places , You've been there and vowed not to come back ; Some places , I've been there, that's all ; Some places , You'll think of another one ; Some places , You know you will come back . Lhasa is the last one .
Xiaozhao Temple 、 Robrinka , The three temples in the suburbs and so on , A lot of places didn't go , Leave a lot of regrets . Also quite good , I'll come back to make it up when I have a chance , Usually it's also a thought .
life , Always , It should be , Spend in regret .
goodbye , Lhasa .
Leave Lhasa , Get into 318 The national highway , We're back on the Sichuan Tibet line , It's going to pass through Shannan area , Into Nyingchi .
Shannan is the smallest area in Tibet , The area is also close to Chongqing . To Tibet 、 xinjiang , You will truly feel what is vast .
Shannan has a high position in Tibet , The Tubo tribe originated here , After more than 30 generations, the king of Tibet came to Songzanganbu , Unified Tibet , Moving the capital to Lhasa . After the death of Tibetan kings, they are still buried in Shannan ancestral land , There are still dozens of tombs of Tibetan kings here , There are countless Tibetans every year 、 Han people came to pay homage to these great Zanpu , Remembering their glory in the past .
On the way to see a not too big pointing card , It reads “ Tomb of the king of Tibet ”. We turn a blind eye to it , Driving past .
Actually , There is no tomb of the Tibetan king , The Tubo Dynasty lasted for more than 200 years , Overthrown by angry serfs , The rebels destroyed the ancestral graves of the rulers who oppressed the people cruelly . If you like tushanbao , You can also have a look at .
Of course, there are many places worth seeing in Shannan , Three of the four sacred mountains in Tibet , Two of the four sacred lakes are here . There is also the first palace in Tibet in Shannan 、 The first Buddhist temple 、 The first field 、 first 、 first …… Anyway, Songzan dry cloth is from here , Everything is number one , Just believe it .
Tibetan legend , The former , In a sacred mountain in the south of the mountain , A macaque combines with a woman named Luocha , They gave birth to the ancestors of Tibetans , Shannan is the birthplace of Tibetans . It's kind of like the history of the birth of primitive people in Africa .
however , With modern archaeological excavation , Long before the rise of Tubo tribes in Shannan , There are many civilizations in Tibetan areas , Among them, the earliest civilization originated in the highest altitude of Ali area , Instead of the lower Mountain South . However , Why did Shannan civilization rise in the later period and overpower the tribes in other regions ？
I guess it's due to climate change . Early Tibet might have been warmer and wetter , Ali is located in the plain 、 The Qiangtang grassland in Naqu is suitable for hunting 、 Nomadic human reproduction . Shannan, with low altitude and influenced by Indian Ocean monsoon , Too wet , The forest is thick , On the contrary, it is not suitable for the development of early civilization , Like the Amazon now .
then , Maybe it's because it's getting colder , The population development of Tibet's high altitude plain is restricted , Shannan civilization produced the earliest farming in Tibet . Just look at the history of human civilization , Only those who cultivate land can develop a more mature civilization , And beat the sheep guys . Genghis Khan on horseback is great , The Empire doesn't go down many generations .
therefore , The Tubo tribe in Shannan, known as the granary of Tibet , Finally, Tibet was unified , This is in line with the law of the development of human society .
This is an analysis of climate change , It's just my personal guess , There is no evidence .
Shannan is the first in everything , Of course . At that time, a certain nationality only occupied a large place in the middle reaches of the Yellow River , With the advantages of agricultural civilization and favorable weather and location , Destroy most of the ethnic groups in the southeast, northwest and East Asia, so that they can't even find their ancestral graves , Now we all regard ourselves as the descendants of the Chinese nation , Pay a reverent visit to the mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor ？ The so-called Yellow Emperor has no historical evidence ？
Social Darwinism , Absolutely applicable in ancient history .
Enter the moshugongka County, which is famous for its many temples , The rain is stopping , The traffic is going down the valley , The altitude is decreasing , The mountains on both sides are greener , But the meadows are still sparse , The scenery is ordinary .
This section of the highway is under construction , The mountains and rivers have been torn apart , The construction site is full of mud .
The houses of Tibetans here are old , The color is dim , The door is littered with rubbish . Now it seems , The three regions of Tibet , Weizang, known as the divine realm （ In the Tibet Autonomous Region ）, The quality of life of the people is far less than that of Sichuan Tibet region , It's not even as good as Mayu Ando （ qinghai 、 Gansu Tibetan area ）.
Tibet , The more central , More and more decline , Except Lhasa, the capital of the autonomous region . I don't think that was the case back then .
It's getting further and further away from Lhasa , It's raining again , Sad cold rain .
There are many riders on the Sichuan Tibet line , It's all towards Lhasa . On the road, I met a pair of reverse riders , We're all curious , Ask about parking . I didn't expect it was for father and son , They are my hometown , Shenyang people . Father and son went to Tibet by train , Go back to Sichuan Tibet line . It's a little bit closer to Lhasa 100 km , They rode for at least two days .
Both father and son are wearing glasses , Thin , Son 12 year , My face is broken , There's a large black scab left , I guess I fell out of Lhasa . They're wearing raincoats , At altitude 4700 Shivering on the plateau of the world .
This seemingly weak man must have a strong heart , This ride will leave precious wealth to my son . I just don't know if the father and son can complete the arduous journey of the remaining 20 days , And that's the first big challenge they're going to face , I hope they can make it through .
I envy this 12 Children at the age of , There was no such possibility in our youth .
There are all kinds of possibilities in this era , Parents who do this , Or too little, too little .
The challenge ahead is to build the first tower above sea level after leaving Lhasa 5000 The mountains of China —— Mila pass, , Lhasa, too 、 Shannan 、 Linzhi junction . There are a lot of people at the pass , A large proportion of them are the riders who come to Tibet and the stronger heavy hikers who are on crutches , Their faces are full of smiles .
Mila pass, , Is to be able to see the summit of victory from afar , It's a smooth journey to Lhasa after this pass , Long downhill .
I met more riders on the way down the mountain . There are also a small number of women in this army of young people , They also cover their faces , I can't see my face . One thing is for sure , It's been more than 20 days since I got here , The skin must be dark and rough .
This reminds me of the pictures of beautiful women who went to Tibet and became losers . Funny ？ You deserve to laugh at people ？ What can you do ？ I like women like this , Firm 、 self-confidence 、 Stand on its own .
Tips ： There are several yak sculptures in Mira pass , You can take pictures at will . Bear in mind , Except for these , Never point the camera at the live cattle or Tibetans on the high mountain pass in the Tibetan area , Otherwise, I'll wait for people to ask for money . lofty , It has nothing to do with the nation , Lowly , It's not about religion .
Mira pass is also the dividing line between the two climatic conditions , To the west is Lhasa's inland climate , To the East is Linzhi's marine climate . After entering gongbujiangda County in Linzhi , The monotonous landscape began to change , The mountains and rocks on both sides are rugged , The trees are more luxuriant , Water plants are more beautiful , I feel like I'm getting better .
Through the ancient city of Taizhao . This is one of the oldest post stations in Linzhi , It was built in the yuan dynasty , The ancient road of Tang and fan in the past （ The middle line and east line of Qinghai Tibet post road ） And the tea horse road （ Sichuan Tibet post road ） Here we meet .
Because of time , We didn't go inside the ancient city to visit . You can also imagine , This kind of historic site is just a reconstruction on the site , Old objects and houses , Already decadent in the wind and rain , Things rebuilt in the mode of modern tourism , Don't let it be .
Across the Niyang River, a tributary of the Yarlung Zangbo River, which is turbulent in the rainy season , You can still see a line of plank road dug in the rock on the opposite mountain , Think that year , It's not easy .
On the way to Linzhi , It's rainy and sunny , The weather is changing , The mountains are greener , There are already tall pine trees , There are clouds and mists .
I met three Tibetans on the way , Look, it should be Kangba man , Towards Lhasa , In the rain , So devout , It's amazing .
It is said that , Kangba people have the most blood , And most devout , Giving is also the biggest in temples .
Through a beach , The river is as gentle as a lake , The scenery is beautiful . I got out of the car to take pictures , But there's a tent by the water , Guess it might be Tibetans , As they approached, someone called ：“ Come and have a barbecue ！” Women's voices , The tone is very heroic .
Take a closer look , They are three young Chinese , One man and two women , They all look like college students , Dusty . They went to Tibet as apprentices , I feel the scenery here is very good , I feel better after living all night , I'm going to stay another night . This kind of travel attitude is really comfortable .
Followed by a piece of barbecue , Let's talk , I can see that two girls drink more quickly than water , I was also reminded of the greedy insects , I'm thinking about drinking along with you , The companion is urging . Every time I meet someone who wants to talk more , There will always be people like my husband pouring cold water on one side , It's boring. .
Self driving is too closed , It's hard to get in touch with outsiders , I met some donkey friends by chance , So passionate about us all . People say , Donkey friends are the most willing to help others 、 Work together 、 Mutual respect and love .
Three donkey friends （ The picture has been blurred ）
Or maybe , Otherwise, how can a man and two women sleep in the same tent ？ Is it too crowded ？ Stay in the same place for a night , Another night , Exhausted or not ？ I can't do it .
Think of my savage classmate , He said that this kind of behavior of donkey friends is called “ Bastard ”, Pay attention to the tent “ account ”. Because tents are mostly for two people , It takes a lot of energy , It's not as good as a man carrying a tent , At night, female donkey friends come in to hang out . Anyway, the donkey friends all have a pure heart , It's just sleeping in a tent .
ok , You say yes , I don't believe it yet ？
Arrive at Bayi Town, the capital of Nyingchi in the evening , It's still raining .
Nyingchi is the second most popular tourist destination in Tibet besides Lhasa , It is said that those who come to Tibet for more than a week , Will come to Linzhi for three days .
We immediately realized the effect of tourism fever , The hotel is very expensive and full , It took a long time to find a place , The price is three times that of the same grade in the mainland .
In the middle of the night , The hotel downstairs, beside the road, do pipeline construction all the time , Just listen to “ Dong Dong Dong ”、“ Boom boom ”, Sichuan dialect mixed with workers' chatting . My husband, who has been driving all day, has a high demand for sleep at night , After tossing and turning, he rushes downstairs like a fighting dog . result , I didn't get a moment of silence .
Wait for a long time , My husband hasn't come up yet , I think of an Italian movie ： Someone was killed for some reason , It's sealed in cement . Will the Xianggong association be buried under the road by those Sichuan migrant workers ？ In a daze, I finally fell asleep .
New to Linzhi , It doesn't feel very good .
On the way from Lhasa to Linzhi , It feels good , Especially the hikers I met 、 Young cyclists 、 Tibetan pilgrims 、“ Bastard ” travelers , They all have optimism and perseverance .
The isolation , Enjoy a hard and comfortable life . The charm of traveling to Tibet , Or in this .
“ Do you want stone pot chicken ？” Looking at the signs all over Linzhi Street , Xianggong asked .
Stone pot is a specialty of Linzhi , It's made of a kind of local saponite , It is said that this kind of stone is soft in the mine , When mining, it can be cut with a knife or an axe , And then the wind hardened . Cooking food in stone pots , Because of the slow heating , Better for stewing . Linzhi's stone pot chicken is very famous , Because we chose the famous Tibetan chicken , With all kinds of Chinese herbal medicine , Cooked in alpine snow water , Great taste , It's an absolute tonic .
I don't know what Tibetan chicken is , It's absolutely a chicken without a tail . From Tibet to now , I haven't found any chickens yet , Why is Nyingchi full of fragrant Tibetan chicken all over the world , Where did you come from ？
By logical analysis , I don't think it's reliable .
“ cough ……” After clarifying the logic , Clear your throat , I'm ready to speak .
“ How much ？” Without waiting for me to speak , Brother Hua asked . He's been in charge of choosing restaurants 、 May I take your order? .
“ About 400 .” Commander in chief brother li , He has been to Linzhi before .
“ cut , Four hundred and one chickens ？ What's wrong with eating ？ go , To eat Sichuan food ！” Brother Hua waved .
I swallow what I want to say .
We readers can always make all kinds of logical analysis , In fact, they are reluctant to spend money . In short , poor and pedantic .
It's huageliso .
Two years later, , I drove from Linzhi to Lhasa , It's the newly built linla expressway . Of course, it's good to go on high speed , But there are no riders or pilgrims , It is impossible to appreciate the torrent of the millennium old city and Niyang River , You can't stop to take pictures even if you see the beautiful scenery .
In a few years , Sichuan Tibet expressway will also be connected , Safer and more efficient . However , What's the meaning of this kind of self driving ？