The time of Xinzang line walking in Ali, Tibet

2020-11-19 22:50:00  作者:Travel Photography

Yamaoka rinpochi , The main peak of Gangdise , Known as the “ The king of mountains ”. This mountain is Hindu 、 Buddhism 、 The common worship of Bon and ancient Jainism “ The center of the world ”.

The red route is part of our route

I am pure and beyond the naked eye of heaven , See how life disappears and regenerates . I see the higher and the lower 、 Brilliant and insignificant life , I also see how every life is based on his karma , And get the samsara of pleasure or pain .——《 Tibetan Book of life and death 》 Soga Rinpoche

Saffron is blue , It's not red . Zheng Jun 1994 Written in 《 Back to Lhasa 》 I haven't been to Lhasa yet . sing 《 Elder sister drum 》 Zhu zhe Qin is a southern singer . Snow lotus, the healing medicine in martial arts novels , It's dusty after drying , A few dollars a piece . The poet Haizi wrote two poems about Tibet 《 Tibet 》、《 distance 》.

Distant highland barley land

Except highland barley

Nothing at all

Farther away

More alone

Far away

Except far away

Nothing at all

—— Haizi 《 distance 》

80 Haizi, a poet in the s, was frugal for several months , It took 150 I bought a Thangka album with a huge sum of RMB . He went all the way from Tibet to carry back two mani stones , Later, it was inlaid on his tombstone . Now , Poet, this creature has disappeared .

Yu chunshun , Shanghai Men , stay 8 Year's gone 42000 After km , Dead on the road through Lop Nur . Yu chunshun once hiked in Sichuan and Tibet 、 Qinghai Tibet 、 Xincang 、 Yunnan Tibet 、 The whole journey of China Nepal highway , by comparison , Cycling 、 Motorcycle riding 、 The off-road self driving people don't talk anymore , Because this man is at the top of the chain of contempt .

My brain circuits often carry me on the back to do some random things , For example, put 《 Tibetan Book of life and death 》 and 《 Love of life and death in Tibet 》、《 Life and death moto 》 Such books are confused . So I always feel that the book of life and death is about the love between men and women in Tibet , Even a clever guess , They love each other too much , Cut your finger and write a life and death book with blood script ( I don't know what those pseudo Rinpoche people would feel ). And another chance , I've been reading this book for a long time , Discovery is about life and death , All of a sudden, it's boring .

Many years ago, a friend who opened an inn in the Tibetan area told me , One night , A Lama wants to climb into the inn to discuss the double practice with her , She is not a studious person , Excited to call the people's police to help successfully stop the academic discussion activities . This led me to a new understanding of lamas in Tibet , It could also be prejudice .

Tibet is a holy land , The characteristic of the holy land is that it is difficult for ordinary people to adapt to it , The air is dry enough to have nosebleed , It's thin enough to breathe like a fish on the shore at night . Water is precious , The boss in the restaurant brought us tea , I found that I poured one more cup , I'm going to pour that cup of tea back into the teapot , No running water , The water in the restaurant is bought with money .

When I was visiting the once big family temple in Tibet, the Drepung temple ( I'm sorry , The word "visit" should not be used here , It sounds like an important political official coming to inspect ). Accidentally enter a side hall , A Lama is basking in the early morning sun through a window .

I can meet a Lama early in the morning , It's rare , I'm a little flustered , Because there is no change in hand , There is only one in the purse 50 element , This piece of 50 Yuan is to be used for a photo with Potala Palace . In the temple , No money or butter , It's very out of place .

After all, lamas are outsiders , Sitting in the sun is practice , Greeting tourists is also a principle of practice , I can't help but pull me to a Buddha statue , I subconsciously put my hands together , I don't know whether to say zahidler or anituo Buddha . The Lama pulled a bamboo pole out of it , The bamboo pole is smooth and shiny , Must have been admired and touched by countless people . The Lama touched my head with the end of the bamboo pole , The ceremony is done , Then the Lama put his hands together , Smile as bright as sunshine . I was also immersed in a sense of ceremony, and my face was confused , The Lama said , It doesn't matter. It doesn't matter , look around .

I'm good at listening to others , So I went on to look around . Other Tibetan people are all Tibetan people 1 Give the Buddha a dime , If I plug 50, Will there be any suspicion of showing off wealth , Will there be any opinion of a single god Buddha . If every master 、 God Buddha 、 King Kong is like Dorset , This Drepung Temple turns down , Just afraid to file for bankruptcy .

In the hearts of mainlanders , Maybe there are still some of my own imagination , The main idea is that the Tibetan people don't care about hygiene , If you want to live in a Tibetan family , Prepare your own sleeping bag . in my opinion , It is necessary to prepare sleeping bags , But it's not because the bed is not clean , It's a tourist all day long , It's not necessarily cleaner than Tibetan people , If you sleep in someone else's bed , It's amazing that people don't dislike you . All the way down , I lived a few times , People's quilts and beds are really clean .

One night I had a bunk , On the second floor of a Tibetan family in a border town near the national road , A berth 30 RMB , I'm a little bit slow , Didn't grab the best berth . At one end of my bunk is a basket of dried cow dung , At one end is the end of the other , Dried cow dung has no smell , Status equivalent to the honeycomb coal used for heating in the mainland . Master said , This cow dung was bought with money , It's all about heating in winter .

The Tibetan boss is smiling , On the forehead is the plateau standard forehead line , Plenty of sunshine throughout the year makes the skin color and slightly dark room blend into one . Give us a socket later , I'll bring you a thermos later , Tell us later if it's cold , There are quilts on the side . The host's enthusiasm is in sharp contrast to the desolate town , You can't even see a ghost on the road . Our car was parked in the yard , A diesel generator booms and works hard to generate electricity , There is also a Tibetan Mastiff in his twilight years who barely opens his eyelids and looks at the dark night .

My companion told me with regret that , His feet are going to be neighbors to my head . I took a look at the room , The bunk beds are end to end , Make a square . I said, , You take care of your feet , Don't go beyond the quilt . That night , I can't brush my teeth, I can't wash my face and feet , The cold and the environment made me lose interest in charging the battery , The clock is at 23 Location of points , Go to sleep with the sound of boom .

in the midnight , I vaguely feel someone get up to drink water , Someone got up and looked for the switch , Someone went downstairs , Someone snores , Some people talk in their sleep . The rumbling sound disappeared , The achievements of human science and technology civilization have also disappeared , There's no electricity , The lights won't turn on either . The alarm clock is in the early hours of the morning 7 It rings on time , Now the sky and Beijing time 5 It's just as dark . We put the room rate on the table on the first floor and left , Continue our journey .

A place close to Shiquan River, the capital of Ali, is called Zada , Zada has spectacular tulin and Guge Dynasty . The goog Dynasty has nothing to do with the Google empire , But I always associate two things that are out of touch , A pile of incomplete loess architectural remains , Don't let it be .

That night I was on the road , stay 5000 Meters above sea level , There's something wrong with the car . Fortunately, there are two cars , Three of us stayed , The other car took the others , The good-natured people passing by, and the minivan driver sent them to the Taoist class a few kilometers away , So we avoided freezing to death in high-altitude valleys .

There are countless twinkling stars in the night sky , But under the moon after the Mid Autumn Festival , It doesn't shine . But you can still see the Milky way . We sat in the Taoist room with a fire , Talk to the staff of Daoban . They are all Tibetans , With a salary of several thousand yuan , In this place where birds don't poop, I dedicate my youth . The Taoist group is the organization of road maintenance workers , Each shift is responsible for the maintenance of a section about 30 About kilometers of road , Under the Highway Bureau , China from 1927 Road maintenance teams were set up in 1996 .

No, 4G The signal , The major operators will not be on average 10 Square kilometers 1 A personal place to build a signal tower . We were taken to see the monitor of the Taoist class , The monitor was talking with his men in a warmer room . have a fine colour in one 's cheeks , Obviously just had a drink . After the monitor asked for my ID card to make sure we were not wanted , We have a room arranged for us . Pour hot tea , ask people whether they feel hot .

evening 23 Some more , The Tibetan squad leader from Naqu is of the same age 20 Head start , Speaking less fluent Chinese , It looks like summer rain , I can't help asking if he's going to be in a movie . Most of the time it's watching us not talking . It's like people always ask children from Inner Mongolia whether they ride horses to school , I'm trying to ask Naimi how many yaks you have . Naimei said there were no Yaks in the family . As soon as the box opens , Just talked a lot .

Beauty is the inheritance of the father , My father retired , I came to work in Taoist class . There is a pity in the tone , Unfortunately, I didn't go to the temple to study . I became a monitor by my own efforts , A few years down , People who have connections with the backstage have tried to transfer away . By the first 40 There are only a dozen people left in the Taoist class . There is a famous scenic spot near his hometown, Namco , Stay here for a long time , I also want to see the outside world , I asked him where he wanted to go , He said he wanted to visit Chengdu .

For him, , Chengdu is probably a far away place . I advised him to visit Shenzhen , There is a sea in Shenzhen , It's warm , Next door is capitalist territory . But I'm worried , Will the zero altitude in Shenzhen make him drunk . Nai Mei didn't say whether she would go to Shenzhen in the future , I think Naimei may not have heard of Shenzhen , So there was nothing more to say . Naimi brought us some blankets , Keep saying , It's all unused , It's new .

It is beauty who believes in gods that tells us , The roads in Tibet are very strange , Every other day , There will be traffic accidents on mountain roads , Not down the valley , It's a collision at a sharp turn . One night , He's driving , Looking at the other side of the car with high beam light coming , When he meets the bus , Turn off the high beam , Suddenly, I found the car on the opposite side disappeared , As if it never existed . Naimi said it was “ Ghost car ”, Maybe it's the cars that have been in trouble . It's creepy to hear us , The night is getting colder .

Naimi said , You passed by gonrinpochi , We must go to Zhuanshan , Holy mountain will bless you .( as far as I am concerned , In Tibet, there is the year of the horse 、 In the year of the sheep 、 The custom of turning to forest in the year of the monkey . At this time, there is no limit to visiting Ford , Other time may be ha ha .)

Before we get ready to rest with us , Nemeth asked us , Would you like some instant noodles , I thought , Good good , How sorry . I don't know why , No need not , Thank you for the . Nai Mei saw that I was so serious that I left and went back to sleep .

Wake up early the next day ,5030 The altitude of meters is a little headache . After getting up , I found that no one was up . So in the yard in the sun , Take a walk in the Taoist class , Bored to stand on the road outside the road to see the distance , The silent road , Half an hour later, no car appeared .

The Taoist class is cold and quiet , You can't even see a dog . Occasionally a little girl passes by , We asked her where she had food , The little girl was shy , We don't understand why she's shy . She pointed to the next door and said , You can buy instant noodles here . So we waited from eight in the morning until noon 12 spot , The next door opened . We heard the news and ran over to see , It turns out that next door is the place where Mei lives .

But Mei came out sleepily , Look at the sun , And the moon hanging in the sky . And then a punch , I twisted my waist a few times , It is estimated that Yu Guang is surprised to see squatting at the root of the wall , What are you doing here . We thought you'd never come out again , We're lying here because we're starving . The companion said two words with all his strength , Instant noodles .

Naimi said , get up quickly , Sit in the room . I didn't move , The companion followed in and ran out without a breath . I asked him what happened , He said , I can't stand the smell . I look at the sky , Blue sky , And there's a sharp wind coming , The air is so fresh .

Naimi watched us gobble up instant noodles , It's kind of incredible . I decided to fry some dishes for us at noon . I thought. , I knew what instant noodles to eat , Just have lunch .

In the afternoon, Naimei will go to Shiquan River, the capital of Ali, to replenish materials , You can drop us by . We crowded into his Chery together , I'm too tall , Hit the frame several times . Naimi's car is still new , Running tens of thousands of kilometers . A month 5k The salary of , It's supposed to be a car that I've saved for a few years . But Nai Mei was obviously not satisfied , I've been talking about it all the way , It's like a mantra , I pricked up my ears and heard him meditate ,Prado......prado......prado( prado ). This led to a long period of time , I have this sound in my head .

Farewell to Naimei at Shiquan river , We stayed in a hotel , Join up with other teammates .

After packing, I went down a long aisle , Across the aisle came a gold necklace and sunglasses , Big brother in a jacket , This big brother is not swaggering when he walks , But it still caught my attention .

He had a ham sausage in his hand , While walking, humming songs , Every now and then I take a bite . I smell ham sausage , Think of the instant noodles that have been soaked all the way , It didn't come with a ham sausage , I can't help but feel sad for these bowls of instant noodles .

Abominable , I must go to the supermarket nearby to buy ham sausage , Then clench your fist and go out .

I spent most of the time on the way through the wild mountains , I have tasted the east wind, the south wind, the west wind and the north wind , And the vigorous wind of mixing sand , The wind brings tears , The effect is amazing .

Most small towns often don't have restaurants , Only larger counties have . Once I was so hungry that my chest stuck to my back , To a county town , The companion said that let's go and eat authentic Sichuan food , And then stop the car , At dinner , I asked my partner , How do you know this Sichuan cuisine is authentic , The companion pointed to the sign on the glass door , There are four block letters on it : Authentic Sichuan cuisine .

There are furnace heads and gas tanks on the car , It's for use when you're in no man's land , In case of starvation . But it has never been used , Finally, I left all the gas tanks in the Taoist class on the road .

Back to Lhasa ,3800 The altitude of many meters , We feel comfortable . Return the car , Bathed in the sunshine of Tibet . Looking at the sunrise of Potala Palace from the top floor of the hotel , On the edge are the splendid Dazhao temple and the crowded eight corridor street .

Most of the people who live in Lhasa are from Sichuan and Henan . From the conversation with the Tibetan taxi drivers, we can see that the local people are quite critical of Henan people . Sichuan people open Sichuan restaurants in Tibet , Henan people mainly rent cars . Therefore, tourists in Tibet usually buy cold medicine and high anti reflective medicine in the pharmacy opened by Sichuan people , The Toyota car with Yu license plate goes over mountains and mountains , Eating Sichuan restaurant on the way .

The past few days have been like a dream , Dreams always wake up , Right . I looked at the soul of my heart , Everything is as old as ever , It's no different from when you came here . We and Tibetan areas still belong to different time and space .

If you come to Tibet, you can wash your soul , There's no need for prisons in this world , Send the criminals to Tibet for washing .

In Tibet , time ( Time and sunshine ) Will wash your face , It's not like a stream gently caressing your face , It's like a emery cloth rubbing against your skin , Black and rough .

The last night in Lhasa , We had highland barley beer together , Together KTV Dancing and singing around the singing platform to celebrate the end of the holiday , Go to the goddamn highlands and don't drink , Go to the goddamn Gao fan .

bye , Lhasa .

  1. The new Tibetan line is also called 219 The national highway , It's Jichuan Tibetan 、 After the Qinghai Tibet highway , The third road to Tibet , On 1957 Opened to traffic in . The new Tibet line starts from Yecheng, Xinjiang in the north , To the south of Kar in Ali, Tibet ( Shiquanhe town ), Traveling eastward , At the end of the line, Lazi and 318 The section of China Nepal national highway will meet , Total length of 2178 km . Through the south entrance of the gorge 、 Red willow beach 、 Rituzong and garkunsha , Across the river rastan 、 Yarkant river 、 Karakashi River 、 Shiquan River and other rivers , Across Xinjiang and Tibet 6700 The boundary of rice, Osaka, etc 10 The mountain pass , At an altitude of 5000 Lines above meters have 130 km , It's the highest road in the world , It is undoubtedly the highest route to Tibet . The famous second highest mountain in the world, Mt. Georgi 、 Bangong cuoniao island 、 Zada tulin 、 The site of the ancient kingdom 、 Yamaoka rinpochi 、 The holy lake mabanyongcuo is along the Xinzang highway .
  2. Pulan is the southwest gateway of the Qinghai Tibet Plateau , There are Himalayas in the south , There is Gangdise in the north , go by the name of “ A place surrounded by snowy mountains ”. Gangrenboqifeng and mabanyongcuo are in Pulan county .
  3. Gangrenboqi, the main peak of Gangdise, and mabanyongcuo at the foot of the mountain are called holy mountain and lake , Gonrinpochi is known as “ The king of mountains ”, Mabyon was regarded as “ After the lakes ”.
  4. The office of Ali district is located in Shiquanhe town , It's also called gar , For Tibetan “ tent 、 barracks ” The meaning of . From Shiquanhe town to Lhasa, there are two lines : The southern route passes through baga 、 Zhongba 、 Saga 、 Lhatse 、 Xigaze to Lhasa , The north line passes through Qiangtang grassland , Through jiangba 、 Change the rules 、 fuck 、 Ando 、 Naqu arrived in Lhasa . The south line and the north line are collectively called Alida ring road .
  5. Velvet Temple : Founded in 1899 Rongbu temple, a red religion temple in 1912 , The end of the Rongbu glacier on the northern slope of Mount Everest , At an altitude of 5154 rice , It's the highest temple in the world . The whole Rongbu temple is built on the mountain , common 5 layer , There are only two layers that are still in use . Rongbu temple is about 20 km , Many mountaineering experts believe that Rongbu temple is the best place to watch Mount Everest . From Rongbu temple to Everest base camp 8 km , Walking requires 2 Hours , Just... By car 15 minute .
  6. For the old Lhasa , They still think that the real city of Lhasa is “ Linkou ” The area surrounded by . And these old Lhasa People , Except for a few descendants of the nobility , Most of them are descendants of pilgrims from all over the world . For them , The divine Lhasa is the real Lhasa , Secular Lhasa , It has nothing to do with the real Lhasa . Although Lhasa today has formed “ Left ( In the west ) secular 、 Right ( In the east ) religious ” The big city pattern of .

7.“ Potala ” The word is transliterated from Sanskrit , The Chinese translated the word into “ Putuo ”, It means holy land .

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