Langzhong: "few people from afar will care about the growing white"

2020-11-19 16:13:00  作者:Photography


Two years in Guangde , Du Fu went to Langzhou for the second time through Jialing ancient road in Zizhou . Boating on the Jialing River in the south of the city , The poet touched his feelings because of the scenery , Write down the seven laws , called 《 Langshui song 》:

What is the color of the Jialing River ? Stone, Dai and jade depend on each other .

Just as the sun breaks, the waves come out , More spring returns from the sand .

Batong paddled his oar to the side , The water cock flies with the fish .

Langzhong wins, but his heart breaks , Langzhou city is rare in the south !

This poem is written in memory of Langzhong's deceased friend last year 《 Langshan song 》 Together , Spread the poet's praise of the ancient city today .


Ancient city architecture and Jialing River On overcast days, the river shows a thick dark green As the poet says It's a mixture of black stone and green jasper


The southeast of Langzhong City is Baita Mountain , The 123 story white tower falls on the top of the mountain . The end of the white tower stairway , Maybe it's the highest point that tourists can do . The tower window brings the wind washed by the Jialing River , With nearly saturated humidity . But in the rainy season , For travelers who have just finished the mountain road , It's also a great consolation .

Take a breath and look out the window , In front of you is the most complete Langzhong . The water of the Jialing River in Dailv has drawn an arc among the hills , Keep going , Go to the Yangtze River . The old city and the new city coexist in the area surrounded by an arc , The boundaries are clear , Such as the two levels of eight trigrams . The old black city stands firmly in the southwest , The white new town is expanding around .

Less than one sixth of the area covered by Xuan tiles , But few people from afar would care about the growing white . I can't be an exception . In the ancient city , Both feet and eyes strongly deny the distance and 「 ancient 」 The existence of contrary regions , As if it was the moment before I climbed the white tower to look out , It's just a sudden rise .


The white tower on the top of the white tower was destroyed in the 2008 earthquake Langzhong people think that It was the white tower that took over the disaster in place of the ancient city


In the white tower, there are various gods It's not without tota Lee


The top of the tower overlooks the panorama of Langzhong


The color of the ancient city has never been so bright . Go all the way down Main Street , Souvenirs from Yiwu , A cafe that also sells coffee , Old inn with lanterns hanging , It has already transformed many old houses of Ming and Qing Dynasties . Under the wave of commercialization ,「 ancient city 」 Head up , It seems that it is no longer a pure praise of cultural heritage . Langzhong , You can't be alone .

But there's nothing wrong with that . After all , Assembly lines and standardized products , This is the characteristic of this era . What's more? , Although the tide has diluted the original taste here , But it also brings new energy . Compared to the gloomy community , Although the street in front of us has some defects , But it's a great way to keep these older buildings alive .


Gilded signboards It's crimson The ancient city under the heavy makeup of commercial elements It's like adding a net red filter At first glance, it is the same as other ancient towns


Have to admit The old house decorated with flowers In fact, the appearance is not bad


The old town restaurant


Lao Hu selling bean curd Carrying a pole and waving a rattle to attract business


Baoning vinegar is one of the three best in Langzhong Foot bath shops can be found everywhere in the ancient city, providing the service of soaking feet with vinegar


Visitors who are always fastidious and in a hurry are equally justifiable .24 Hours or 48 Hours , Too hasty footstep lets the understanding always only float on the surface . Fortunately, the people living in the ancient city , Most of them don't hesitate to talk about Langzhong, which has not many tourists in their memory . The owner of the inn where I live is one of them . Probably because the epidemic has been idle for too long , He can't shut his talk .

「 When there was no water in Jialing River , The beach is full of sand and pebbles . Once summer comes , There are bare men and children on the beach , Swim and shower 、 Fish and shrimp , What has .」

「 The river water can be drunk directly . Those old teahouses came back with water from the river . Pour water into a copper pot , Put the tiger stove on the boil to make tea , It's much more fragrant than the tea soaked in tap water now .」

「 Little friends are neighbors . It's too hot to sleep at night in summer , We moved the bamboo couch out of the old house , Talking about ghosts . Sometimes there's watermelons chilled by well water , Everyone is scrambling to eat .」


In front of the grocery store, I looked at the piggy girl who was in a daze


Uncle carrying watermelon


The spare teahouse in the ancient city


Deep down the alley still retains the original simple appearance


The insurmountable generation gap Will continue to tear up the memories of Langzhong of two generations


No matter how the impact of the times has changed their hometown in their memory , It is obvious that Langzhong people are proud of this land . In a taxi , When I tell the driver 「 Go to the ancient town 」 when , He repeated in a accentuated tone 「 It's to the ancient city ? Langzhong ancient city .」

Until you get to the Huaguang building , The line of sight follows the green glazed eaves , Green tiles rise and fall under the feet into black waves , I realized that their insistence on the difference was not just tedious rhetoric .


Huaguang tower, which was rebuilt in Tongzhi period of Qing Dynasty, is located in the south of the city On the lively 、 Xiahua street goes through the building


Visitors to Huaguang building


Looking at the ancient city from a high place Without the interference of those gorgeous colors You can see more pure Langzhong


Pedestrians shuttle through the streets of the ancient city Compared with big cities The scale of people and architecture is not so different


The story of Langzhong is hidden in this ancient building . It's a long story , In the age of chaos even longer than cancong Yufu , It started . But what really shaped Langzhong from a settlement to a city wall , It's Shu Road .

The southwest of Chang'an, the capital of Han Dynasty, Xianyang, the capital of Qin Dynasty , It's Hanzhong, which the strategists must fight for 、 Chengdu and Chongqing . I don't know if it's calculation or coincidence , Langzhong is in the center of the triangle . Rice warehouse 、 Langjian 、 Dongchuan 、 Li Lang , And the Jialing River waterway , Five ancient Shu roads meet here , Langzhong has become an important post station for entering and leaving Sichuan .

Today's travelers , It is no longer necessary to travel through mountains and rivers in Langzhong .「 You're forty-eight thousand years old , Not with the qin sai tong inhabited 」 It's a tough road , It's hard to get an intuitive feeling through physical fatigue . The merchants and the army , Ronin and Mohist , They seem to have disappeared on the Shu Road , The passers-by will no longer deliberately look for the history buried in the wild grass and deep forest or buried in the reinforced concrete . Occasionally, people in the neighborhood walk by , Most of the legends under the feet are also ignorant . I'm trying to find clues about them , But it didn't work . Maybe in a moment when I look around and feel confused , What I can't find on my feet . But anyway , Shu Road will not really disappear . Its genes , It has long been engraved in the body and character of this ancient city .


Four bridges on the Jialing River connect Langzhong with the other side The ancient Shu Road has long been retired Hidden in the distant mountains


The end of the ancient city is no longer endless mountains Blocking the modern civilization and sealing the historical traces with steel and cement


Nanjin pass on the other side was once an important ferry of the ancient city During the Ming and Qing Dynasties There is a floating bridge on the river People can go straight from nanjinguan to Huaguang downstairs


The land of Bashu , And the story of the Three Kingdoms is always entangled in the same .

「 The county of Brazil is half of Yizhou , When the host wants to 」, After Liu Bei subdued Yizhou , Zhang Fei was appointed governor of Brazil , Guarding Langzhong . The sword gate chokes the throat of Taurus , The pivot of the rice barn in Langzhong , Defense in Sichuan , These two are crucial . Later Zhang Fei broke Zhang Ying at the wakou of Langzhong , Through this war , Cao Cao had to look at Shu for the rest of his life .

It is a pity that , A generation of fierce generals are killed by their subordinates in their drunken dreams .《 reflection 》 remember ,「 He was the first to attack Wu , Feidang leads thousands of soldiers , From Langzhong to Jiangzhou . Pro Hair , Its account will be Zhang Da 、 Fan Qiang killed him , Hold its head , Running down the river to Sun Quan .」 Failed to die in battle , For Zhang Fei , It's a pity . Standing in front of Zhang Fei's tomb , I'm a little confused . As tiger generals , He is also the brother who made a friendship with Liu Bei's Taoyuan , Why all over China , Guandi temple is always full of incense , Zhang Fei temple is rare ? I wonder if it has something to do with the intensity of their death .

But there is no doubt that , Langzhong people chose Zhang Fei as their spiritual totem . I believe in this , It's not just the angry, round eyed image of Zhang Fei in the temple of marquis Huan of Han Dynasty , It's not just the streets of the ancient city 「 Zhang Fei beef 」, And the legends about Zhang Fei that they passed on from mouth to mouth . For most people , Maybe just like me , The role played by Zhang Jingfei comes from the role of Li Jingfei . But in Langzhong , Zhang Fei is not that angry 「 boorish fellow 」; He can write and draw , Seven years in Langzhong , It is also a profound way of cultural governance ; At the same time, he advised farmers to teach mulberry , He loved the people like a son and managed well , It can be called the local Guardian God of Langzhong .


Huanhou Temple of Han Dynasty Zhang Da 、 Fan Qiang cuts off Zhang Fei's head and wants to join the Soochow kingdom On the way, I heard that Sun Quan asked Liu Bei for peace Then he put his head into the Jialing River Zhang Fei's head floated to Yunyang, Chongqing with the river So Zhang Fei 「 The head is buried in Yunyang , The body is buried in Langzhong 」 The said


Hua Guang Lou mural 「 Zhang Fei defeated Zhang Ying 」


Be adept with both the pen and the sword , It has always been the standard expectation of Chinese people for future generations . Measure the inside story of a city , If we only advocate martial arts but not literature , It's hard to convince people . The quantitative standard of this , It fell on the head of the imperial examination system . The survivors of the Jinshi , It's not just the ancestral lintel that shines , And the reputation of my hometown . At this point , Langzhong, who produced two pairs of brother number one scholars , There's enough confidence .

Yes 「 Wutong Shuangfeng 」 The famous Yin Shu 、 Brother Yin Ji , In Tang Dezong and Tang Xianzhong respectively won the crown of the number one scholar . And his brother Yin Shu , There's another paragraph 「 Self expanding head 」 The story of , It is known to all ages in Langzhong .「 Thank you very much , Let's take the number one scholar . He said : The number one scholar must be an old man . It's amazing , Because of my life, I made it by myself .」《 Tang Zhiyan 》 Volume 8 records that . Yin Shu, who has passed the age of the ancients, recommended himself , Is it full confidence or conceit , Each has his own interpretation .

Chen yaosou and Chen Yaozi brothers in Song Dynasty , The Chen family they belong to , It's also an enviable family .「 Three prime ministers, father and son , Four Jinshi in one school , My son is No. 2 」 It's a tribute to their father, son and brother . His younger brother Chen Yaozi , Although not as prime minister as his father and two brothers , But he's a great shooter , It can be said that both civil and military can be combined . remember , Ouyang Xiu is really 《 Selling oil Weng 》 There is 「 Chen Kangsu is good at shooting , be absolutely matchless in the world , The public is also proud of this 」 Description of , Can be seen .


Sichuan Gongyuan For the Ming and Qing Dynasties in northern Sichuan Province examination room


Children playing with mobile phones in the Confucian temple


If we say that Shu Road is the blood of the ancient city , History is the backbone of an ancient city , The spirit and spirit of Langzhong , It should be a more metaphysical art of geomantic omen . No matter the people or the officials in Langzhong , All will 「 Fengshui city 」 As the name of the ancient city . As a materialist believer , I don't know anything about feng shui , But also almost immediately accepted this title to describe the ancient city .

Langzhong originated from mountains and rivers , Take the mountain as the soul , Take water as soul ,「 The city is surrounded by rivers on three sides , The surrounding mountains lock the haze 」, In the reign of emperor Renzong of the Song Dynasty, Li Xianqing, the magistrate of the state, ascended the Huaguang building , The landscape and the ancient city complement each other , I wrote 《 South Tower 》 Verse , In praise of this unique geographical location .

As for the geomantic warlocks used 「 dragon 」「 Sand 」「 water 」「 hole 」 Such as consistent images and terms , It's beyond my knowledge , They have to be content with not understanding 、 unclear . According to their calculations , On West Street 、 North St 、 Wumiao Street 、 The crossroads of shuangzhazi Street , It is the most prosperous place of Fengshui in Langzhong , Is for 「 Ten ways of the heart of heaven 」. Look at the layout of the ancient city , So 「 Ten ways of the heart of heaven 」 Is the spindle , It's time to start , Rice Market Street 、 Xuedao Street 、 Number one street , The streets are horizontal and vertical , It's like a chess array , Houses of all colors are built along the street , Or sit north and face south , Or face west back East , They all sit with the distant mountains .

Guarding 「 Ten ways of the heart of heaven 」 It's Zhongtian tower . This one is known as 「 Fengshui first floor 」 Although the three story wooden structure of the building looks antique , But it may be one of the youngest buildings in this ancient city .


Rebuilt in 2006 Zhongtian tower in It's hard to tell the real year of its construction just by its appearance


Ancient city sand table in Fengshui Museum In the center is Zhongtian tower


Shuangzhazi street is the south section of the main axis cross of the ancient city The streets still have the original gates and walls


Everyday life at the root of the city wall


When passing through Zhongtian tower , At the end of summer vacation for senior two students in Langzhong middle school . They're like all high school students who leave school , Twitter , There's a lot of noise ; They are in groups , Crowded into the shops on the street , When I came out again, I held strings in my hands , Take milk tea ; They say goodbye to each other at the next crossroads , The team broke up into small groups , In a twinkling of an eye, they all disappear at the end of the alley or in the shadow behind the wooden door of the old house .

In Langzhong , It's not hard to find such life like fragments . The habit of the aborigines formed by the repetition of the sun and the moon , Not all of them disappeared with the influx of visitors from all directions . Maybe it's because I get along with the ancient city day and night , Most of them are infected with the temperament of the ancient city , At the end of the street .


Indigenous people and foreign visitors One of


Indigenous people and foreign visitors The second


Indigenous people and foreign visitors A third


Indigenous people and foreign visitors Of the four


Guanxing street, which connects the new town and the ancient city, is undoubtedly a buffer zone between tourists and locals . It's not so much the street , It might be more appropriate to call it a wider alley .

It's not seven o'clock , Farmers and traders who came from nowhere have gathered on this narrow stone road . Under the dark brown wooden door and the lead white gray wall , It's the spread of fruits and vegetables , Bright colors . Uncles and aunts with slippers also emerged from the streets . They may be familiar with each other . Langzhong dialect has been developing one after another , To me, it's Sichuan dialect with changed tone , No clue . But the ups and downs of the transition revealed , Except for a deal , Clearly, there are family members .


The ancient city is early


The square in front of the North Sichuan Road Office , It's obviously the old town's Activity Center for the elderly . The afternoon of the little summer season , Cicadas are singing more than ever , The air is hot and humid , But the stone tables in the square are full of old friends , Hand full of Sichuan unique long card . Those who come late and have no place , I don't know where to turn out folding tables and chairs , Sit down on one side , Another game . Want to come a few months ago that period of isolation at home , They must be suffocating .


The card game in front of the North Sichuan Road Office


In the north of Sichuan, there are many places in Sichuan 「 Lian 」 And the hall of marquis Huan of Han Dynasty 「 The righteous 」


But the most common street in the ancient city is , The neighbors gathered in a heap , Busy with the work at hand , Wear the skin of your mouth ; The old man riding a battery car runs through the streets , Every road is a treasure ; The shopkeeper who got empty , Move a bench in front of the store , A sip of tea , A leaf fan keeps shaking ; Chasing and fighting guerrilla units , There are countless cram schools , Only a wild summer vacation . Of course , And the fearless meow Wang , Walk around me .


No matter how many women It's all a play


Ancient city riders


Leisure businesses


Boy scouts


Wang Chai in Langzhong


The meow of Langzhong


Maybe in a few years , They will all disappear in the ancient city , Go to the white city that we don't care about any more .「 Demolition 」 The curse of may never fall on the head of the ancient city , But when the habits of this generation are replaced by the habits of the next generation , The temperament of the indigenous people will no longer be compatible with the ancient city . It's like roads and high-speed rail have replaced Sichuan roads , Such a process , Inevitable but irreversible .


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